Innumerable restaurateurs worldwide have failed where Portuense pizzeria In Fucina succeeds: transforming the modest, egalitarian pizza into the basis of a justifiably expensive, even chic meal. In Fucina, laudably, does it without gold flakes or lobsters. Instead, under the arches of In Fucina’s understated interior, diners share successions of pies, usually proceeding from the simple margherita to more evolved creations, like one featuring diced Barolo-marinated pear and fontina. In Fucina’s owner decides the sequencing. This borderline-precious approach to pizza is, happily, supported by an equally thoughtful selection of craft beers on tap and by the bottle, and a wine list bursting with well-priced cult bottles. One departs from a meal having paid rather more than is usual for pizza. But nor does one often encounter pizza of such quality, with such richly flavorful, pie-like crust, served with such evident care.
In Fucina in pictures
Photos © Rome by Mouth
What people are saying
- Scatti di Gusto (2018) says that In Fucina is atypical and “impossible to classify.” They love the pizza with calamari, bottarga di Cabras and burrata di Puglia.
- “Roma nel Piatto” by La Pecora Nera gave them a score of 4 out of 5 points for pizza in 2018.
- Puntarella Rossa (2016) calls In Fucinia the most ambitious, most gourmet, and most expensive pizza in the capitol. Back in 2014, they declared the Margherita al Rhum (with tomatoes macerated in Trinidadian rum) one of the best pizzas in Rome.
- Luciano Pignatero (2016) Virginia di Falco calls this “the most controversial pizzeria in the capital” in part because of their prices, which range from 20-34 euros for the creative pies, and because it feels more like a restaurant than a pizzeria with pizzas arriving in courses rather than all at once.
- Scatti di Gusto (2010) explains that the toppings are what set these pizzas apart. The owner personally selects the seasonal ingredients from mostly organic sources to come up with creations like spinaci saltati (sauteed spinach) with Conciato di San Vittore (cheese) and guanciale cotto al vino di Cori (pork jowl braised in wine).