Category Archives: Monti / Esquilino / Celio

Perpetual

Perpetual is an audacious and modern new restaurant in the sleepy quarter just east of the Colosseum. Its opening six months ago was the culmination of a six-year effort by Cezar Predescu. The investment of time and money is palpable. There’s a slightly nervous energy – is this going to work? – that pulses through the mostly empty restaurant. One wants to root for them, and indeed there is much to praise at Perpetual. But it’s a more complicated picture…    >>Read More

La Tavola di Oliver Glowig

Rome’s Mercato Centrale at Termini train station has rightly received a lot of attention for its street food offerings from PizzariumTrapizzino and other stands. Not enough attention has been paid to La Tavola di Oliver Glowig, a serene restaurant perched on a mezzanine high above the hubbub. The food is without question some of the most delicious I’ve tasted in Rome, and I keep looking for reasons to return.

I routinely offer to accompany departing friends to this chaotic transport hub under the guise of being a good host, when in reality I can’t stop thinking about Glowig’s cacio e pepe with sea urchin. One time I even stopped for lunch in between changing from one subway line to another. The setting is admittedly strange, but the food keeps calling me back.  >>Read More